Just a quick wander this time, starting from my usual base on the Aldwych, bottom of Kingsway. Centre of the world!
We begin opposite Bush House, birthplace of Auntie and now home to the World Service. Going East from the Aldwych, we pass some of the buildings of the LSE and it’s main entrance to the campus, Houghton Street, then onto Fleet Street to have a quick look at the Royal Courts of Justice. It’s a huge, gothic monstrosity, an arcane collection of turrets, spires and gargoyles, very much appropriate to its High Victorian heritage, and reminds me of the house out of The Haunting. I bet there’s ghosts and talking walls and the like. You can watch almost any case for free, which I’ve never done nor likely shall do, but the option’s there nonetheless.
From there, take a right over Fleet Street past the beautiful Lloyds bank and the original Twinings shop, down Middle Temple - if it’s open. You’ll have to figure out how to wend your way between the green leather desks and stuffed shirts of the lawyerly fraternity as it can be a little tricky to explain, but it’s worth the trip to wander past the quiet, charming chambers (“who enters here leaves noise behind” – Dickens), the Temple Church, - home to all sorts of Da Vinci Code-esque derring-do – quiet fountains, and the like. Quite the oasis to take your pasty to at lunchtime.
If the gates are shut, nip down the considerably less exciting Essex Street, or better, Devereaux Court, from where you can access Temple Gardens. Then you’ll find yourself at the worringly-fast-paced Embankment – finding a crossing is advisable, rather than risking your life jaywalking.
On the other side, though, you’re rewarded with a very maritime feeling promenade, past perma-moored restaurant ships, lifeboat stands and seabirds. The edge of the City of London is here, denoted by a dragon, as you’ll find all around the Square Mile. You’ll have good views of the sites along the river, from Tate Modern to the Oxo Tower, to the Southbank Centre.
Take a right, and walk along the river, past the downstairs/goods entrances to Kings College and Somerset House. Up the steps then and you’re on Waterloo Bridge – one of those irritating places in London, like Baker Street, that automatically puts a song in your head. Have a little nosy over to the South Bank if you have time, if not check the legendary view East from Waterloo Bridge, taking in the Gherkin, Tower 42, the Tate, Docklands and of course, St Paul’s Cathedral.
As you can see, there’s always, always, cranes on the skyline in London – the city’s shooting upwards at a rate of knots and the skyline is constantly changing. But part of London’s charm has always been the juxtaposition of old next to new, sometimes by necessity, sometimes out of sheer bloody-mindedness, but there’s always something great round the next corner.
Make sure you have a good look at the other side of the bridge too – try it just before dark, when Ray Davies’ Waterloo Sunset is in full flow. Check out the MI5 buildings down the river, the rest of the Southbank Centre, etc.
Then back up the bridge past Somerset House, home of the Courtauld Institute, several galleries, and some ace outdoor concerts/films in the summer. Then round the Aldwych past Dirty Dancing, Desperately Seeking Susan, and other such hideous film-to-theatre transfers. This’ll bring you back to Bush House, and home.
